Monday, August 31, 2009

New Clarke Tank 4.3 gallon Install

I have decided that after having to get to a gas station every 80 miles or so, that a larger gas tank is in order. I ordered the Clarke 4.3 gallon tank and put it on yesterday. So far I like the looks of it, it fits very well, and it went on in about 30 minutes, very easy install.

The stock tank holds 2.1 gallons of fuel and at about 75 miles I need to switch to reserve, that is not a lot of miles of riding, before having to worry about gas. The Clarke holds 4.3 gallons and I figured at 55 MPG's I should be able to go for around 180 miles before looking gas, that is a big difference, believe me.

I got about 115 miles on a tank of gas with the stock tank, with the Clarke I should get about 236 miles to a tank. That makes those extended trips now more of a posibility.

The only think I don't like about after market tanks is the fact that theyare plastic and you cannot put a decal on the tank, the fumes escape through the tank and don't allow the decals to stay on. They start to bubble and eventually come off, with the stock tank, it is metal and the decals stay put. I like the stock decals so the fact that I will now have a plain white tank is not the most desireable thing, it sure beats the crappy mile range of the stocker tank. There are some alternatives out there that are supposed to work on the plastic tanks, but I have not really seen any that I like well enough to put on my bike, so I will just keep looking.

Here are some pics of the new tank:





Sunday, August 30, 2009

3 Days Riding The Mono Basin.....UPDATED With Pictures!

Here are a few pics of the ride.









Just got back from a 3 day riding trip to the high desert, in and around the Mono Basin. This was the first real trial of the DR350, and as expected it passed with flying colors. I was a little unsure if the smaller displacement DR350 would handle the rugged terrain and heat of the desert. All I can say is it handled it as if it were made for it.

I spent about 70% of the time on the dirt, mostly sand, loose gravel, and very rocky. The ramainder of the time was cruising the interstate and the two lane asphalt roads that surround the Basin. The DR was unbelievable on the asphalt, the 350 was enough to maintain speeds of 70 MPH on the 395, and keep ahead of traffic on the twisties.

Off road was where it really shined, it gobbled up the sand and gravel with ease. There were very few times that the bike got a little out of control, some of the sand was just a little bit too much for the tires that were on the bike, Kenda 270's. Better tires would have made the sand no problem. The power was more than enough, there were no times where I felt that more power was needed.

There are more roads than anyone will ever need, they just seemed to be never ending. My ride usually started early in the morning, and ended well after dark. I managed to stay upright during the entire trip, not one spill, total control for the most part.

If anyone ever doubted abilities of the DR350, you can put your mind at ease. The DR350 is just at home on the interstate as it is on the miles of sandy, gravel roads. I rode hard and did not go easy at all. I pushed the bike to it's limits each and every day, and the bike handled it with out a hiccup. As a matter of fact I tired out long before the bike did. I did long stretches of freeway, followed by miles of dirt riding, and the DR was flawless and highly recommended.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

SugarPine Trail & Miami Trail Coming Tomorrow (Actually it is here Now!)

OK here are the Pictures I promised, a very fun ride. I rode Nelder Grove, Miami Trails, and Sugar Pine areas. There was some rain this morning, but by 2:00pm it had started to clear up amd turned out be a very nice day. Full Ride report to come later, maybe tomorrow, or if the mood strikes me, you may see it here tonight, who knows? Stay Tuned.

OK,OK heres the ride report, see that did not take long:

This was the first real test of the newly aquired DR350, I decided rain or shine I was riding in the mountains, and man, am I glad I did. First I have to say pictures just cannot do justice to the Northern Sierras, they are one of the most beautiful spots in the state of California to ride any time of year. It is just beautiful year round. Today I went to Sugar Pine and the backroads there, Miami Trails and Miami Trail Road, then up to Nelder Grove. A couple of dissapointments, one some of the roads I used to ride behind Sugar Pine are no longer open to motorized vehicles, it kinda sounds temporary, but we shall see. Second the road to the big trees in Nelder Grove is closed to all motorcycles, but there are so any places to ride there, I was able to get over it pretty quick. It has been years since I have been to Nelder or Sugar Pine, but I have been to Miami trails many times, I like it there, some people don't. Today was good only about 10-20 other riders that I saw there.

Now for the bike, in a word, incredible! I can't imagine what else anyone would want in a dual sport bike, it is light, nimble, and has all the power anyone would ever need. I ran the gamut today, big climbs, rutted trails, wet, sandy roads, wide open straight aways, never once was i feeling like I neede more power or extra throttle. I am used to riding the backroads on a KLR650, and a Honda XR600R, the KLR is a big overweight pig off road, and the XR600 is just a powerful torque monster that happens to be big. I did not at anytime miss the power of the XR600, because it is really overpowered for the kind of riding I do. In the desert on a wide open plain, oh yeah, it flies, but in reality I do very little of that kind of riding, once or twice a year.
The DR is a fantastic bike, I was able to tear up the dirt roads and then jump on Hwy 41 and get to my next destination easily at Hwy speeds. Riding the Fire roads and trails on the XR when I would get on the throttle it would throw a huge rooster tail with very little effort, on the DR when I got on the throttle it would throw a rooster tail with ease, and still be under control, and thats the difference. The XR has raw power, the DR has manageable, useable power, power and torque are great, but they can get you into an out of control situation very quick. I found my self most of the time between 3rd and 4th gears today on almost every road, that seems to be where the power is the most usuable. 1st and 2nd just get you going, and 5th and 6th were for the most part not necessary with the exception of the Hwys. Seriously I really don't see why anyone needs any more power and torque than the DR350 delivers, I can see why they would WANT more, but not why they would need more.
This is what I would call the perfect trip, it did rain on me this morning for a couple of hours, but it did clear into a beautiful day later on. It was not blazing hot, and long sleeves were actually comfortable to wear. AS for the bike, no hiccups at all, none, it fired up each and everytime I hit the button, and I stopped alot. It did not use a drop of oil, and I was on the throttle very hard for many, many miles today. I just had to fill up once today, but I kept resetting my ODO during different legs of my ride for tracking purposes, so mileage was not kept track of. I started at 8 am and loaded up the truck at 6 pm, so as you can see I rode a few hours. It was a very nice feeling to ride a bike that I did not have to muscle around all day, and still felt like I was tearing it up. Like I said, I never once felt like the bike was not able to handle anything I gave it today. I do't know the differences between the DR350 and 400's, but I can see why people prefer the 400 over the 650's as a true dual sport bike. The 650's are a bear to muscle around and even with the extra power, I'm not sertain it is really relevant in the pure dual sport riding environment. I would assume the DR400 has a bit more power and better suspension, and of course is water cooled, but other than that i would say you are probably not giving up much by going with the DR350 over the DR400. I know my 350 was staying with the big boys today with out feeling like I was pushing it to the limit at all. I would say based on the 2 Dual sports that I have owned, the DR350 is a more pure spirited dual sport, it sacrifices very little, but is able to do what it is designed to do, on road/off road, and both very competently.
OK now for some pictures, in no particular order, they are from all the places I rode today. Enjoy!










Yes I will finally get to the backroads, a report and photos will be here tomorrow evening, I promise, well hopefully, no really I will, just kidding. I have been salivating to get this bike to the trails and I am going tomorrow rain or shine, considering thunderstorms are in the forecast, that should make for some fun riding. Wet is always good, especially when it comes to riding conditions. Stay Tuned. On a side note I just got a book that is excellent and I highly recommend, it is called "Backcountry Adventures-Northern California" $39.00 at Barnes & Noble. It is worth far more than the price paid, there are more roads and trails than anyone could want ride. Get this book, or email me for any information in the Northern CA area where you may want to ride or get into your 4X4 and get out of town,very good, and I will happily share this information with anyone needs it. It has mileage breakdowns, maps and GPS coordinates, would be useful with a good map. Good stuff!




The DR350 Tested

If you are having doubts about the power and abilities of the Suzuki DR350 Read this article, it may open your eyes. I have a link to it below, but i think it is worthy of its own headline. Check it out:

http://www.motorsports-network.com/SUZUKI/dr350/dr350.htm


Saturday, August 15, 2009

Suzuki DR350 Specifications

Manufacturer Specifications

DR 350 1994

Overall Length: 2 165 mm (85.2 in)
Overall Width: 885 mm (34.8 in)
Overall Height: 1 250 mm (49.2 in)
Seat height: 920 mm (36.2 in)
Wheelbase: 1 440 mm (56.7 in)
Ground Clearance: 310 mm (12.2 in)
Dry Weight: 122 kg (268 lbs)
Engine type: Air/oil-cooled 349 cc SOHC single-cylinder, 4 valves. 30 hp (22.1 kW)/ 7.600 rpm, 29,4 Nm/ 6.200 rpm (Sweden). 6-speed transmission.
Top Speed 75 MPH (This is not accurate, I have had my bike to 90 MPH Indicated)

Some other information that may be useful:

Sparkplug- CR9EK-NGK, U27ET-R Nippondenso, I'll have to get the specs for the gaps. The information got was incorrect.
Drive Chain- 520 X 110
Front Sprocket- 15T
Rear Sprocket- 41T
Front Tire- 80/100-21
Rear Tire- 110/90-18
Oil- SAE 10w40 API SE or SL, 2.0L with oil & filter change.
1.8L with oil change without filter change.
2.2L with engine Rebuild.
Front Fork Oil- 10 WT Oil.
Brake Fluid- DOT4
Fuel capacity- 2.4 US Gal/2.0 IMP Gal, 49 State and UK, 0.5 US Gal Reserve.
2.1 US Gal/1.8 IMP Gal, California, 0.4 US Gal Reserve.
Valve Clearances (Cold)
Intake- 0.05-0.10 mm, 0.002-0.004 in.
Exhaust- 0.08-0.13 mm, 0.003-0.005 in.
Idle Speed- 1,400-1,600 RPM
Drive Chain Free Play- 25-40 mm, 1.0-1.6 in.
Headlight- 60W/55W 12 Volt
Tail/Brake Light- 21W/5W 12 Volt

Torque Specifications (FT LBS):
Crankcase Oil Plug- 13-16.5
Frame Oil Drain Plug- 11-14.5
Oil Strainer- 18-21.5
Front Axle- 36-58
Rear Axle Nut- 61.5-83
Front Fork Cap- 21.5-29
Cylinder Head Bolts- 25.5-29
Cylinder-cylinder Head Nuts- 16.5-19.5
Exhaust Pipe Flange Bolts- 13-20
Exhaust Pipe-to-muffler Clamp Bolt- 13-20
Muffler Mounting Bolts- 16.5-20

No Ride Today

I went to fire up the DR350 and nothing, dead. After 2-3 hours of troubleshooting, I finally found a wire that had shorted out and killed what was left of the battery. The battery is 4 years old and just could not handle it. I spliced another wire in and got a new battery and viola, it fired right up. So instead of riding I ended up just going through the entire bike and got it ready for the next ride. Now I'm sure it is all ready to go, new plug, fresh oil, new oil filter, lubed the cables, and cleaned air filter. Now I just have to find a day to go and ride, soon I hope, maybe tomorrow, who knows.

Some information on Oil for your motorcycle

Motorcycle oils

Brief Introduction
Along with keeping things adjusted properly, using a good quality motor oil and changing it regularly is the key ingredient to keeping your motorcycle running happily for a long time. You cannot go wrong using one of the various "motorcycle-specific" oils, now available also from some of the major oil companies. However, many motorcyclists object to the higher prices of those oils and for convenience prefer to buy oil at their local Canadian Tire store, which is a still a good option. This article will provide you with information to make an informed choice.

Price of Motor Oil
So how do you make an intelligent choice? Will $1.00 a quart automotive oil work okay or do you need to pay $4 to $12 a quart for "motorcycle" oil? You have to answer that question yourself, but here are a few facts to help you make the best decision for your situation.
The owner's manual of your motorcycle probably says something very similar to the following:
Use only high detergent, premium quality motor oil certified to meet API Service Classification SF or SG (shown on container). The use of additives is unnecessary and will only increase operating expenses. Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives as they may adversely affect clutch operation. That's pretty clear. But what do you do since automotive oils now say on the container meets SL Service? That's easy! By consensus of the API and the manufacturers, the current SL classification meet all requirements of SF, SG, SH, and SJ plus all earlier API gasoline categories. The current SL actually offers some additional benefits over the older classifications. So, if the motorcycle requirement says SG, be confident that SL indeed meets that requirement.

The Vanishing Zinc and Phosphorous
It is a fact than many SL oils now contain lower levels of ZDDP (the zinc/phosphorous extreme pressure additive) and that is a big concern to a lot of motorcyclists. ZDDP is a last resort protection against metal-to-metal contact. Whereas a few years ago the zinc level was typically 0.12% to 0.15% in SG automobile oils, some SL oils now have as little as 0.05%. However, this in itself may not be a problem since normal operation of a motorcycle on the street would never result in metal-to-metal contact any more than it would in your automobile. Remember these SL oils meet the most demanding protection requirements of modern, high-reving, powerful 4-stroke automobile engines (among others). And there is no reason to believe the lubrication requirements of street motorcycles is measurably different.
However, if you race you probably need higher levels of ZDDP and should use appropriate oils or ZDDP additives.

NEW Motorcycle Oils
Seeing an opportunity to bridge this perceived gap between motorcycle oils and automotive oils, many traditional oil marketers like Castrol, Mobil, Motul Pennzoil, Quaker State, and Valvoline now sell their own "motorcycle" oils at very competitive prices, and alongside their automotive oils. I have found them at several of my local autoparts stores and even at one WalMart store. Call or visit the auto supply stores in your area and ask. Even if they don't routinely stock them, they probably can order a case for you at substantial savings because their mark-up is generally quite a bit less than motorcycle shops.
Although not a motorcycle oil, oils with the designation "Racing Oil" are not intended for street use, generally meets SG requirements and has somewhat higher levels of additives, like ZDDP. An example is Valvoline's VR1 Racing oil available in 20w50 weight. These should work fine in our motorcycles.

Energy-Conserving Oils
Some are concerned that the new "energy-conserving" motor oils may have "friction modifiers" which will cause clutch slippage. Since that is a legitimate concern it is best to use only oils which are NOT "energy-conserving for motorcycles with wet clutches." Read the back of the container. It clearly identifies this. In general, only the very lighter oils, like 10w30, 10w20, 5w20, are energy-conserving. All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils which I have found are not energy-conserving and can be recommended for general motorcycle use.
It is commonly mis-stated that "SJ and SL oils have friction modifiers which will cause wet clutch slippage." In reality, all oils have friction modifiers, that's how they work. ZDDP itself is a friction modifier. The real issue is to avoid getting the friction so low, with very thin oils containing extra amounts of friction modifiers, that clutches will slip under normal use. Stay away from energy conserving oils and you should be fine, if your clutch is in good working order.

Synthetic or Conventional
What about synthetic vs. semi-synthetic vs. "dino" oils? All motor oils have several special additives formulated into the oil to protect from corrosion and wear, plus detergents to keep combustion products in the oil. For normal (non-extreme) use, "dino" oils protect as well as the synthetic oils. However, if you plan to race, run at extremely high temperatures, or plan to extend oil-change intervals, or simply want the best, then a synthetic or semi-synthetic may be your best choice.

Real World Test Results
Are there any "real world" examples of long motorcycle engine life using automotive oils? There is a good one in the June 1996 issue of Sport Rider magazine in a report called the "100,000 mile Honda CBR900RR." The owner used conventional Castrol GTX oil, 10W40 in the winter, 20W50 in the summer. He changed it every 4,000 miles, changing the filter every OTHER oil change. No valve clearance adjustments were required after the initial one at 16,000 miles. And a dyno test against the same model with only 6,722 miles showed torque and horsepower virtually identical. The 100,000 mile bike was even used for some racing. In a subsequent follow-up, the same CBR had passed 200,000 miles and was still going strong! Oils have changed over the past 10 years, but that just means we need to be more careful in our choices.

Frequency Asked Questions
What is a reasonable oil-change interval?
Most manuals recommend not to exceed 8,000 miles after break-in. But short-trip riding is considered severe service and the most common oil change interval is 3,000 to 4,000 miles. However, a long trip is the easiest service for the oil and going 6,000 to 8,000 miles between changes while on a cross-country ride is routine. Also, the use of synthetic oils can easily double the oil-change interval.

Q. Will changing the oil even more frequently, like every 1,000 miles, prolong the life of the engine?
A. Not very likely, because even at 3,000 to 4,000 miles, the oil and additives are not degraded very much. Changing more often just wastes money.

Q. What about the claims that motorcycle-specific oils contain special polymers which are resistant to breakdown caused by motorcycle transmissions?
A. Oils usually require the addition of polymers, called VI improvers, to create a multi-viscosity oil, like 10W-40. Whether it is a motorcycle oil or an automotive oil, all polymers are subject to some degradation in the transmission. Full synthetic oils tend to have less polymer than conventional oils and therefore degrade less.

Q. Why are motorcycle oils so much more expensive than automotive oils?
A. Cost of doing business is higher per quart of motorcycle oil. Large oil companies make so much more product that their profit margin per quart does not have to be so high. That's why the newer motorcycle oils being marketed by some oil companies are only marginally more expensive than their automotive counterparts.

Q. What about the claims by specialty motorcycle oil manufacturers, that their oil is better?
A. That's a good one. Next time you hear that line, simply ask, "What evidence do you have?" I've never seen any. If you do get any, please let me know! I don't believe that there is any. Now, armed with all this information, you are ready to make your choice between automotive oil and motorcycle oil. Either will work fine. Your motorcycle probably cannot tell any difference. There are many riders, the author included, who use nothing but good quality automotive motor oils. There also are many who use nothing but motorcycle oils. All indications are that both choices work equally well because motorcycle engines are designed so well that the oil really doesn't make any measurable difference. As long as it meets SG, SH, SJ, or SL service requirements.
Full Synthetics - for Maximum Protection
For years Mobil One 15w50 has been a favorite of motorcyclists. In recent years it has gone from its original formulation to an improved SJ "TriSynthetic", and more recently as SL "SuperSyn." several of us have received conflicting information on this new "flavour" of Mobil One, but the consensus appears to be that the new SuperSyn has additional friction modifiers and may no longer be a good choice for motorcycles. However, I have heard from several VFR owners still using it with favorable results. Therefore, YMMV. Mobil naturally recommends their motorcycle Mobil One.

A fairly new player in the synthetic market is Shell with Rotella-T Full Synthetic 5w40. It is not energy-conserving and according to Shell performs competitively with Mobil Delvac One full synthtetic, which means it offers even more protection than does Mobil One 15w50.
Delvac One should be an excellent motorcycle oil but is generally available only at truck stops or in commercial quantities. For those who may have connections with a long-haul trucking operation, where Delvac One is known to be used in oil change intervals up to 150,000 miles, or even more, you may want to try it if the price is right.
There are a number of other synthetic and semi-synthetic oils available and I have no reason to believe they are in any way inferior. Just follow the advice and use one which is not energy conserving.

Important Note: Do NOT use synthetic oil untill your bike is properly broken in and be sure and use the recommended viscosity range, e.g. 10w40, 20w50, etc. for the climate in your area. In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For example, 20w50 is better in warm weather than 10w40, because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection.

A Note on Warranties
Since it is generally accepted within the industry that current classifications also meet all older ones, there can legally be no warranty issue. In fact, some oils actually say on the package "SG" in addition to SH , SJ and SL. However, if any of the very newest motorcycles specify oil meeting the new JASO, or other motorcycle-specific oil specifications, and no reference to "SG" or similar automotive specs, then you may have a potential warranty issue so behave accordingly

Here is a Bike that has been in our family since 1979

The 1979 Honda XL185S, A fun Durable Bike for the ages.






And is still running strong. It was purchsed brand new off the showroom floor at the local Honda Dealer, who will remain unamed, because I can't stand them. They are the only game in town and are the biggest collection of jerks who were ever assembled in a motorcycle shop.If you need parts or a tire change please do yourself a favor and go to your local Cycle Gear. Friendly knowledgeable people there and always willing to lend a hand, their customer service is second to none. They can get most parts that you will need, and at a much better price. I have used them for years now and have no complaints. This bike is a 1979 Honda XL185S, dual sport street legal bike. I have ridden it for many, many years and it is still running strong after all these years. It needs rear turn signals, which were lost years ago and a new right side battery cover. Other than that it starts right up on the fist kick and runs very strong. Bikes were made to last and take punishment back in those days, they were big steel monsters that loved to be ridden and would reward you by not breaking down. I just put new set of Dunlop knobbies on it, since most of it time will be spent in the dirt, exploring the back roads, it makes a great camping companion, and will probably be going strong when I am long gone. I just hope my kids enjoy it as much as I have. Check out the pictures.

The big Test Tomorrow

Tomorrow I am going to take the DR350 out for a ride in the foothills. That should be a great teat of the potential of this motorcycle. I am going to give it an oil change and new filter first, then ride to the forestry roads and just get on it. So far I like the bike, it is light, nimble and has plenty of torque, it does not have the rip your arms out of your socket torque of the XR600 I just sold, but it is good manageable power. I like to push my motorcycles to the limit jst because that is the way to find out what they can or cannot take, plus it is a super adreneline rush. MY next test is going to be a 3-4 day trip fully loaded down and just head out somewhere that sounds fun. I know the DR is a bit smaller, but I have heard that they make great sport adventure bikes.
The DR350 weighs about 268 LBS dry, and my KLR weighs about 388 LBS dry, so there is more than a 100 LB difference in the two. Full of fuel and my stuff the KLR must top 425 or better. The DR will top 300LB with fuel and my gear. That makes big difference on how it will handle on the highways and freeways, but it should not be a problem for me. The other concern is the fuel tank the KLR has a 6 gal fuel tank (+/-) and I can go 200-225 miles before i need to start looking fuel, about 45-50 MPG. The DR350 has a 2.4 gallon tank and a 0.4 reserve, and i am going to estimate about 60+ MPG, which means at about 100-120 miles before I need to start looking for fuel. That is an easy fix though, there is an aftermarket tank that is 3.5 gallons, which should get me 200 miles per tank, so that is ok.
I spent the day fine tuning and riding the bike, so far I really like it, it is a lot of fun. It has the power to get it up in 1st and 2nd gears and will out gun most cagers from stoplight to stoplight. On the freeway it cruises at 65-75 with no real struggle and I had it up to 85 before I shut it down, with throttle to spare. I am certain that about 90-95 is tops, doesn't sound fast but we are talking about a single cylinder medium displacement bike, so really not to bad. I generally cruise 65-70 on the Hwy's anyway, I am not looking to get where I am going fast, but to enjoy the surroundings, and for that slower is better. I'll take a camera and shoot some pics of my ride tomorrow and post as soon as I can.

Next week I am going to LA for 3 days and will take the DR350 on the back of my motorhome, I can't wait to explore the PCH (Pacific Coast Highway). I may actually just take a trailer instead and take both the KLR and the DR because I am visiting my brother who is also a motorcycle fanatic, and maybe we will do some riding. Yeah that would be a blast, I haven't seen him for 5 years and what better way to catch up than to take a ride together.

Here is a very good site on the DR350:
http://www.suzukidr350.com/

Unfortunately there is not as much information as I would have thought out there, but maybe I have missed some. The above site is a very comprehensive site for the DR350 and has good information, it is well worth a look.

Here are some others that are worth a look as well.

http://www.motorsports-network.com/SUZUKI/dr350/dr350.htm
http://www.bikepics.com/suzuki/dr350/
http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/suzuki_dr_350_s_1991.php
http://www.mondoenduro.com/mondoenduro.html These guys toured the world on DR350's Great story!
http://rides.webshots.com/album/60192191rIrvfi

Just some stuff to get you familiar with this bike, which in my mind is very under-rated and underappreciated. I have had many bikes over the years, some I have kept for years and others I sold in a short period of time. I have a real strong feeling this will one that will stay in my possession for a longtime to come.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

The Newest Addition!

Yes this is the newest edition to the stable, a 1994 Suzuki DR350. No details tonight, just pictures, enjoy. I will get into specifics tomorrow, after I go for a ride of course!